Program – Programm - Programme
Dag - Day - Tag 3
Sunday 28/02/2010
Frokost is becoming my favourite Norwegian word - and I'm also learning that if I come any time after 9 o'clock, all the watermelon, grapes and peach yoghurt drinks will be finished because most of our co-tourists seem to be morning people and eat all the good stuff before I get out of bed (I know why I don't like group travel!).
Today, I was left with a choice between a soft boiled egg and a hard boiled egg (or a full English breakfast which I somehow feel I couldn't manage even with all the ginger I brought along). Soft boiled egg it was!
06.00 - 12.00 TRONDHEIM
Excursion: city walk
We joined Inger's "informal" group leaving the ship at 9.30am. I must say, it is quite a walk to the town! (And we're young and quick.) Ma father-in-law went on the excursion organized by Hurtigruten - they were bussing, not walking.
We passed some yachts frozen in the ice and also a statue of Leiv Eiriksson. He was not the owner of the first mobile phone but a son of Eirik Thorvaldsson, also known as Eirik the Red (because of the blood on his hands), who in 986 explored and colonized the southwestern part of Greenland. Leiv Eiriksson brought some timber from "the new country" which he sold to a merchant from Bremen. This first ever export of American goods to Europe took place around 1000AD. (As Inger stressed, please note there are no horns on his helmet - god knows where you people got it from.)Next to the statue, there is this tablet with names of Norwegian emigrants. Many Norwegians fled the country during the years, and apparently these days there are more Norwegian descendants in the US than in Norway. Reason? Big families, little money.
The Trondheim quay in the picture on the left.
During the early middle ages, Trondheim (Nidaros) became an important religious centre. It all began with the death of St. Olav at the battle of Stiklestad in 1030. Pilgrims came from far to be healed at St. Olav's shrine in Nidaros. In 1152, the town became the seat of the archbishop. In the 11th century, a church was built over the holy shrine and Nidaros remained one of Europe's most important places of pilgrimage until Reformation in 1533.
The famous Trondheim cathedral.
What we haven's seen bu may be worth seeing the next time is the Museum of Music History at Ringve. Victoria Bachke, a Russian artist who fled from the Revolution and married in Trondheim, used her knowledge and energy to collect musical instruments from a large number of countries.
Cold in Trondheim.
This is from the Trondheim harbour - I couldn't quite help myself.
ca 12.05
We have the island Munkholmen on the starboard side. The island has been both a monastery and a prison. Today it's a popular spot for bathing and excursions. The monastery, that dates back to the middle ages, was damaged by fire. In the 17th century, a fort was built on the island that was however, never of any military significance. Its cannons were not large enough to ward off the Swedes who attacked Trondheim in 1658 and 1718. When a German warship entered the harbour on 9 April 1940, the town had neither guns nor shells. Here we go. Looks pretty in the sunny weather though.
14.30 Tiny red one. Looks like a lighthouse brother of the Czech castle Cervena Lhota.
The next day, our photography teacher showed us how to clone the sky to make the weather more dramatic. Long live Photoshop! (I'm one of those he calls "orthodox" - I believe in the camera, lens and the photographer's eye rather than a piece of software. My weather is therefore boring.)
ca 16.15 STOKKSUND
narrow passage
"We pass Stokksund during the late afternoon. At this point, you will understand the importance of good sea charts and the art of navigation. When Kaiser Wilhelm II. of Germany sailed into this area, he became so nervous that he took the wheel himself. The pilot, Nordhus, managed to get rid of him with the words "I'm the boss here". He was later given a golden watch by the repentant Kaiser. "
It really was very narrow there.
J. just after we've passed Stokksund. He looks somewhat Norwegian in this photo.
ca 18.00 Another stretch of open sea; Folda
20.15 MIDDAG - DINNER - ABENDESSEN - DiNER
20.45 - 21.15 RØRVIK
The capital of Vikna with its 6000 islands and 3700 inhabitants. MS Richard With is also docked here.
Going to bed excited. We're passing the Arctic Circle tomorrow between 7am and 8am (we could all put our guesses to a box during the dinner). Let's get moving!
Today's special offer from the Souvenir shop - we could have gotten a map of Norway with a 15% discount.
Program – Programm - Programme
Dag - Day - Tag 4
Monday 01/03/2010
00.30 - 01.00 BRØNNØYSUND
03.45 - 04.15 SANDNESSJØEN
05.25 - 05.30 NESNA
The Arctic Circle is the border of the Land of the Midnight Sun. It circles the Earth at 66°33' north, marking the southernmost point at which the Midnight Sun shines 24 hours a day on a Midsummer Night's Eve. This occurs 23°27' from the North Pole, due to the angle between the sun's orbit and the earth's orbit at the Equator. Once you cross the Arctic Circle, you belong to the same family as the 400 000 of Norway's citizens who for centuries have been members of the world's northernmost civilization.
We crossed the Arctic Circle at 7:43:43am (and lost the bet - J was the closest with a guess of 7:41am).
Whereas no other Scandinavians make a big deal of crossing the Arctic Circle, the Norwegians marked the point with a globe and we all received a "Polar Certificate" issued and signed by the Ruler of the Seven Seas. Nothing wrong with a bit of romantic soul!The Ruler of the Seven Seas then visited us on board and "baptised" everyone by throwing few ice cubes behind their collar.
Arctic post stamp - today only!
12.30 - 15.00 BODØ
- informal walk with Inger
- formal bus trip to Bodø and the Saltstraumen
- semi-formal trip to the Aviation museum (it is possible to go on a bus to the Norwegian Aviation Museum (150Kr))
My father in law first paid for the bus excursion to the Saltstraumen and then felt like he'd rather go to the Aviation Museum. So we split - the women (that's me and my mother-in-law) went to Saltstraumen and the men went to the Aviation Museum to check out the Spitfires.
We got to the bus which was completely full despite people's general proclamation that "there is nothing to see in Bodø." The trip was rather nice, the guide was making sarcastic comments about the fact that there is nothing in Bodø.
Some places are being referred to as the "Venice of the North". Bodø could be referred to as the "Mestre of the North". Not extremely pretty, but friendly and practical. There trully is nothing in Bodø, just Bodø itself. (I used to work for a company based in Mestre and the bus ride through Bodø brought back some memories.)
The town is modern - in the good as well as in the bad sense. It has some 45 000 inhabitants and it's growing. Local industries include fishing and an engine factory. There are over 1000 college students in the town and Bodø is also a site of Norway's defence headquarters and the seat of the bishop of northern Norway. Bodø is also the last stop on the trainline to the north. Here we go. Not as bad as it looked at the first sight.
Church in Bodø
My mother-in-law in the bus
After an hour in the bus, we finally got to the place everyone was curious about. The Saltstraumen, which literally means "salt flow" and which is the world's largest tidal current.
400 million cubic meters of water flow through Saltstraumen in about 6 hours, balancing high and low tide between the two fjord basins. The maelstrom can reach speed up to 20 knots. Nature's own "Bubble bath" makes characteristic whirlpools up to 10m in diameter. Locally, these are called "cauldrons".
The direction of the current changes every 6 hours or so. For a short period, the strait lays quite still, before the current picks up speed and the masses of water again cascade like a river. (This is when we must have been there as the whirlpools didn't at all look dangerous. Just cold.) Nature's regularity causes this to happen four times a day. The timetable is available at the tourist information office, at the hotel or the camp site information kiosk.
The maelstrom brings food for large quantities of fish. Seagulls and fishermen gather around this wealth. The power of the maelstrom varies throughout the day, due to moon positions, summer and winter solstice, wind and air pressure. The impression of the maelstrom might not therefore always be as overwhelming as when the current is the strongest.
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Coming from a landlocked country, I looked at wikipedia how is a "tidal wave" actually defined - and learn that the term tidal wave may refer to:
- a large movement of water formed by the funnelling of the incoming tide into a river or narrow bay
- a tidal or storm surge, which can cause waves that breach flood defences
- a tsunami, which is a surge in the tide caused by a seismic event (as opposed to the regular tides caused by gravitational gradients).
- a band associated with the United States Naval Academy Band
- the 1993 EP debut release by The Apples in Stereo, and song on the album Fun Trick Noisemaker
- a 2009 South Korean disaster movie
- a World War II military operation
- the theme park ride at Thorpe Park, in the UK
- a ride at Six Flags Magic Mountain
I needed to get my senses together and calm down by taking a photo of this beautiful cabin nearby.
J. had a good time also
17.30 Northern Lights lecture in the conference room on Deck 4
We were shown pictures that we most likely won't be to take ourselves but can buy in a souvenir shop. Marco promised the Northern Lights live at 10:30pm (remember this bit).
19.00 - 19.30 STAMSUND
19.00 - 21.50 Excursion: Viking Feast
We were shown pictures that we most likely won't be to take ourselves but can buy in a souvenir shop. Marco promised the Northern Lights live at 10:30pm (remember this bit).
19.00 - 19.30 STAMSUND
19.00 - 21.50 Excursion: Viking Feast
Some of our co-tourists bravely joined the Viking Feast. We decided that eating reindeer in huge quantities would spoil the romantic feel of having crossed the Arctic Circle some mere 12 hours ago. (Besides, the excursion was expensive and will no doubt be very very touristy ..)20.15 MIDDAG - DINNER - ABENDESSEN - DiNER
(No reindeer.)
21.00 - 22.00 SVOLVÆR
Svolvær is the third largest town in the county of Nordland, and is often referred to as the capital of the Lofoten Islands. The ice gallery Magic Ice and the War Museum will be open.
The Magic Ice gallery shows the Norwegian past in presence using statues made of ice. I was keen to see it. We were running late so unfortunately I didn't have time to have a drink in the Ice bar.
There will be sold vouchers for a special Trollfjord mug in the restaurant, cafeteria, bar and by the tourguide. It's distributed out on deck 7 from 11 pm. NOK 75 incl souvenir cup.
We had our punch on the Deck 7 and I know have a mug with a troll. Despite the bright sky and (almost) full Moon, I would prefer seeing the Troll Fjord in a daylight the next time.
Just before we arrived to the Fjord, we saw the Northern Lights!!! The first day beyond the Arctic Circle. Looked like a few green smudges in the sky (photos below, this blog post doesn't want me to add any more pictures to it.) Marco is a genius.
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